North Devon – Southwest Coast Path Iconic Spots

Surf beaches, rugged headlands, and quaint fishing villages. (Combe Martin to Marsland Mouth)

Suggested Walk: 4–5 Days

Route: Combe Martin → Lynmouth → Ilfracombe → Croyde → Clovelly → Hartland Quay → Marsland Mouth

Iconic Venues: Lynmouth The Rising Sun, Lynmouth The Ancient Mariner, Ilfracombe The George & Dragon, Ilfracombe The Thatched Inn, Croyde The Thatch, Clovelly The Red Lion, Clovelly The New Inn, Hartland Quay The Wreckers Retreat.

This stretch is longer and dramatic — plan for multiple overnights and savour the ever-changing coastline. It started, as all the best walks do, with coffee and sea air. Leaving Combe Martin behind, boots dusty from Exmoor, I headed west into a totally new rhythm. North Devon's coast is a mood swing in cliff form — high drama to wide open surf beaches, then back into mysterious valleys and tucked-away villages that feel untouched by time.

Lynmouth – Where the Hills Meet the Sea

I took a short inland route to Lynmouth, a place where rivers meet ocean in a steep cleft between cliffs. This village is pure storybook — narrow lanes, stone cottages, and bridges straddling the rushing East Lyn. I stayed the night and soaked up the harbour vibes with dinner at The Rising Sun — a 14th-century smugglers' inn turned romantic getaway. Low beams, candlelight, views over the water — it’s one of those places that feels like it’s always been there, just waiting for walkers to stumble in.

Later, I popped across to The Ancient Mariner. Yes, it’s nautical, yes it’s named after Coleridge’s poem, and yes, it has an actual 16-foot tall figurehead inside — because why not? The beer garden has one of the best views in the village. Lynmouth might be small, but it punches well above its weight in coastal charm and deep exhale energy.

Ilfracombe – Clifftops and Quirks

The path from Lynmouth to Ilfracombe is no joke — big climbs, big views. It’s the kind of day that makes your legs burn but rewards you with sweeping ocean panoramas and the sense that you’ve earned your next pint.

Ilfracombe has this curious energy — part traditional seaside town, part eccentric art gallery. Walking past Damien Hirst’s Verity, the massive sculpture that looms over the harbour, feels surreal after so much raw nature.

For lunch, I ducked into The George & Dragon, a cosy, unpretentious pub tucked just off the high street. Later, dinner and drinks at The Thatched Inn — the name delivers: thatched roof, hearty meals, locals by the fire. It’s the kind of place that’s been serving tired walkers for decades.

Croyde – Surf and Sand Between the Headlands

Leaving Ilfracombe, the path threads along the coast past Woolacombe's epic beach — a sandy highway for surfers and dogs and dreamers. Croyde is just around the corner but has a whole different vibe. Think low-key surf village with retro charm.

I stayed a little longer here than planned (easy to do) and made my pilgrimage to The Thatch — surfboards on the wall, live music most nights, and one of the best burgers I’ve ever had on the trail. If you only have one pub stop between hikes, make it this one. Everyone’s salty-haired and sun-touched, and you’ll feel right at home.

Clovelly – Cobbled Steeped Storybook

Then comes Clovelly. And nothing prepares you for it.

This village isn’t just old — it’s preserved in amber. No cars, just cobbled lanes tumbling down the hill to a tiny harbour where donkeys once hauled cargo. You have to pay to enter, and for once, it’s worth every penny.

I wandered down through whitewashed cottages, hung with flowers, and stopped in at two must-visits:

• The Red Lion: right on the quay, waves lapping just outside the window.
  
• The New Inn: halfway down the hill, ideal for a drink and a breather before the final descent.

Time feels slow here. I sat with a pint, the sea gently knocking against the boats, and felt like I’d stepped back a hundred years.

Hartland Quay to Marsland Mouth – The Wild Finish

From Clovelly to Hartland, the path gets feral. This is serious hiking territory: steep valleys, remote headlands, and views that’ll stop you in your tracks. Don’t rush this bit. You’re walking the edge of the world.

Reaching Hartland Quay, I collapsed into a seat at The Wreckers Retreat, the pub inside the old customs building. The views? Immense. The coastline? Ruthless and stunning. Stories of shipwrecks echo off the slate cliffs. The bar is the perfect mix of hiker refuge and maritime history — I stayed longer than I meant to. Everyone does.

The final push to Marsland Mouth is like walking through a lost land: deep wooded combes, tiny waterfalls, and a border-crossing into Cornwall. You’ll cross the county line on a little bridge over a stream, which feels poetic after so many miles of coastal wildness.

Final Thoughts

North Devon is wild, warm, and completely alive. It’s where the coast path earns its name — cliffs, coves, and communities that stay with you long after the walk ends.

If you're planning it, give yourself time. You’ll want to linger in the surf towns, get lost in the cobbles of Clovelly, and sit a while longer at The Wreckers Retreat watching the Atlantic roll in.

Next stop: Cornwall. Let’s go.

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